Out of all the beautiful places I visited, Soller Mallorca was my absolute favourite. It had everything – a gorgeous and lively main square, Mallorcan charm, beauty and rugged surroundings; I could go on and on. I thought it only fair to write out everything I loved and learnt on my trip to Soller.
Soller Mallorca
Soller is nestled in the Tramuntana mountain ranges in Mallorca, an island off Spain. Even if you’ve never heard of it, it’s unlikely you’ve never seen an image of the main square, Plaza De La Constitutión. Characterised by gorgeous old buildings and the old red passenger train rolling through town, it is a sight to be seen.
Of course, Soller is more than just the main square. It is filled with dazzling little streets to wander and bustling with restaurants. The surrounding nature means it’s a hikers dream and it is well placed for day trips.
Soller is a must visit on any Mallorcan itinerary. If you’re only in Palma for a few days, you can catch the old train from Palma to Soller. Featuring open aired carriages and a bright red colour, the train is an experience unto itself.
Soller as a base for a Mallorcan itinerary
I stayed in Soller for four days and used it as a base for a number of day trips. It was the perfect base, in my opinion, and I would highly recommend it if you wanted to stay somewhere other than Palma.
Soller is within striking distance of a number of different sights and towns. If you stay in a hotel with parking, it is also easy to zip in and out of town without too much trouble.
I will stop here and say that Soller is very clearly suffering from overtourism. When I arrived in Soller, cars were banked up all the way back to the tunnel and the town was a standstill.
It seems ironic to suggest Soller as a base and to mention over tourism in one paragraph. I guess it is. Personally, I think the Spanish government needs to manage the over tourism issue. It would make life more enjoyable for the locals and also Soller more enjoyable for tourists, too.
Day trips from Soller
- Port De Soller is the most obvious day trip. Port De Soller is only about a 10-15 minute drive from Soller town. It is a stunning seaside resort with a beach and gorgeous restaurants lining the shore. You can also catch the train from Soller to Port De Soller, a much shorter trip than the one to Palma.
- On that note: Palma. You can catch the train down to Palma from Soller. I’d recommend going early and returning early to miss some of the crowds. I don’t know whether anyone has ever missed the last train back due to overcrowding, but that’s not a risk I would want to take.
- Fornalutx. Fornalutx (and Biniaraix, which you can walk through en route) are two stunningly beautiful towns right near Soller. In fact, the hike up to the towns is absolutely stunning and 100% worth it, in my opinion. Both towns are small but gorgeous and well worth a visit. I went on the day the Soller market was on because I assumed it would mean the towns would be a bit quieter.
- Sa Calobra. Sa Calobra is a famous road in Mallorca that winds down to a beach and hiking spot. The entry to Sa Calobra road is 33 minutes from Soller. It then takes about 30 minutes to drive down the windy (and sometimes thin) road to the beach. The road is part of the activity, though, so don’t rush it. I saw a good tip that said to get in and out before 12-1pm in peak season. This is when the tour buses start to leave, and you will have to reverse on sheer face roads if you encounter a bus in the other direction.
- Hiking! Of course, no Tramuntana town is complete without a hike. There are plenty of nice trails to choose from.
More day trips from Soller
- Deia. I stayed two nights in Deia, but it only a 21 minute drive from Soller. I will say that the road is thin and windy so it might take a bit longer, but it’s a very achievable day trip. In September (when I went) parking was SCARCE so again, I recommend going early.
- Valldemossa. Surprisingly, Soller to Valldemossa is only a 25-30 minute drive. You have the option to drive down the MA-11 road and then onto the MA-1110, an inland which I recommend. I didn’t take this route, but the cliff route that passes through Deia is very thin and very busy.
- You can go a little further abroad, too, and visit Pollenca. Pollenca is a 1 hour drive from Soller and an absolutely gorgeous little town.
- I actually drove to Cap De Formentor from Soller because it was rainy on the day I planned to drive from Pollenca (much closer to Cap De Formentor). It is a 1 hour or so drive to the start of the national park, and another 30 minutes to the lighthouse. I recommend getting up extremely early if you do this because you need to be in and out of the lighthouse road before 10am. Mallorca has implemented this rule to protect the road and environment in the area. You can go straight from the lighthouse to Cap de Formentor beach, which was one of my favourite beaches in Mallorca. You need to park in an official car park to avoid getting a fine for being in the area. After parking, though, you can leave whenever you like (ie after 10am).
Things to do in Soller
We’ve discussed the day trips you can do from Soller, but what about things to do in town? There are plenty and the following are some of my favourites.
Firstly, you have to eat lunch, have coffee or have a sangria in Plaza De La Constitutión and watch the train drive right past you. This a quintessential and unique experience in Soller. As to where is best: I don’t know. I chose whatever had a spare seat closest to the train at that time. I daresay they are all reasonably similar, but you can try them all if you have enough time in Soller.
Get an ice cream or a natural wine at Mr McCoys island ices. Not only is the ice cream delicious but they have a balcony where you can sit and watch the train pull into the station. A lovely spot for a break.
Visit the church of Saint Bartholomew in the main square. I can’t believe that I forgot to do this because I was always rushing off somewhere. By all accounts it’s beautiful and worth a peek.
Soller Tennis club is a stunning local club and pool with a cafe. You can book tennis lessons, But I would prefer brunch and a swim. Sadly the pool had closed by the time I was there in mid September, but definitely add it to your itinerary if you are there mid summer.
The Gardens of Alfabia are a gorgeous little spot to spend an afternoon. There’s a little bar and cafe in the gardens so you can escape the heat with a spritz and some lunch.
A few more things to do in Soller
Soller also has botanical gardens in the town itself. I didn’t go, but it could be a nice way to spend an hour or two.
Ecovinyassa is a working citrus farm just outside of Soller town. It is, by all accounts, a gorgeous little spot. I didn’t go because it was closed on the day I planned to visit, so make sure you check the opening hours.
Mallorca is known for markets and the market in Soller is on Saturdays. I’d recommend planning your stay in Soller to coincide with a market day if you want to go. Parking in Soller is immensely difficult on the best of days and market day draws a big crowd in the summer.
Where to stay in Soller
I stayed at Hotel Ca’l Bisbe which is a cute little hotel in the centre of town. It is walking distance (a 5 minute walk maximum) to Plaza De La Constitutión. I stayed in a room without a balcony because it was the only room left and it still managed to be my absolute favourite hotel.
The hotel has a lovely pool, a well reviewed restaurant and a good breakfast. It also had a car park (right at the top of town just after the roundabout) which is hugely important. I will say that the walk from the hotel to the car is an uphill one and takes about 10 minutes. Not ideal with a suitcase, but still.
I LOVED my stay (which was not at all sponsored, in case you are wondering) and I’d highly recommend it.
For a bit of a splurge, Can Veri Suites, Hotel L’Avenida or EcoCirer are all gorgeous options. Ca’s Xorc agriturismo looks stunning, but a bit too far out of town for a quick walk in for ice cream. Definitely one to look at if you want a relaxing element to the trip though. A little further along that same road (en route to Deia) is Hotel Corazon which is very chic and has a nice little restaurant.
I have to say that most hotels in Soller have glowing reviews, so I don’t think you can go too far wrong.
Where to eat in Soller
I should preface this by saying that I am a gluten free fussy pescatarian who was solo travelling. My idea of a good meal might differ considerably to yours as tapas is not particularly gluten free/vegetarian friendly.
- Anywhere in Plaza De La Constitutión. This is because it’s less about the food and more about the atmosphere. The plaza feels different in the morning, lunchtime and at dinner so it’s nice to experience it multiple times.
- Re Organic is a cute cafe with lots of vegetarian and gluten free options. They have a nice little courtyard for drinks and a little shop at the front with fruit, veg and other nice things. I’m not 100% sure if they are open for dinner but it is a great place to have lunch a little away from the business of the main square.
- Ca’n BoQueta is a Michelin starred restaurant in Soller. I didn’t go but it does receive great reviews.
- I had Sa Butigueta on my list but I chickened out when walking past (I was travelling solo). It seems to be a tapas bar that locals enjoy which is always a good thing. You also get to watch the train go past if you sit outside.
- Ca’n Pau Gelats Artesans is another gelato place in Soller that gets great reviews. This in addition to Mr McCoys Island Ices which we have already chatted about.
- Ca’n Pinxtos has a very creative and delicious looking menu with vegetarian options.
- I only came across this as I was researching this article, but La Romaguera looks delightful.
- I didn’t go, but Alameda bakery concept store looks very cute for a cake and coffee.
Where to eat in the surrounds of Soller
In Port De Soller, Es Fanals and Sunset Lounge are at Juimerah hotel. Both have a fantastic view and Es Fanals is apparently very good. The sunset club was just OK food wise but you are paying for the incredible view.
In Port De Soller, Es Blai and Patiki beach. Two excellent beachside restaurants serving fresh and modern cuisine.
In Alconasser, Béns D’Avall (about 20 minute drive). This is a Michelin star fine dining restaurant with an incredible seaside setting.
Near Alconasser, Hotel Corazon (10-15 minute drive). A trendy and gorgeous hotel with fresh, local food and nice cocktails.
In Deia, Nama (20 minute drive). A modern Asian fusion restaurant with stunning views over the mountains of Deia.
In Biniaraix, Bar Bodega Biniaraix. The menu looks fresh and delicious and the place has a fun and community focused vibe.
Tips for Soller
I highly recommend staying in Soller as opposed to visiting for the day. As handy and fun as the train is, it means you are arriving with a hoard of other tourists. This means that restaurants will be busy and sights busy as well.
Parking in Soller is absolutely appalling. The town centre itself is blocked off to to most tourist vehicles unless you are staying in one of the hotels in the centre. This means people park along the main road above the town to visit for the day. I drove along the main road at around 12pm in mid September and didn’t see a single free car space. It was absolutely jam packed and people were walking for kilometres from their car spaces.
If you stay in town, you choose a hotel with a car park and all of this is sorted for you. No need to trawl for hours and contribute to the congestion.
Another bonus of staying in town is that you get to experience Plaza De La Constitutión before the tourists arrive on the train. It was so lovely to sit in the square and watch the locals chatting away to each other.
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