When I was booking my trip to Mallorca, I knew I wanted to see Pollenca but I didn’t know much more about it. Now that I have been, I can that Pollenca is a stunning little town in the Serra De Tramuntana that is well worth adding to your Mallorcan itinerary.
Pollenca
Pollenca is a gorgeous little mountain town in the North east corner of the island. It is a completely charming town that is very walkable and near enough to the ocean (Port De Pollenca) to make a great base.
Pollenca felt (rightly or wrongly) less touristed than Soller or Deia. It was a nice manageable size for walking around which was great because parking (at least where I stayed) was a little bit hit and miss. The roads in the mountainous towns are smaller and thinner than the main roads which can be a little nerve-racking for an overseas driver.
In September (when I went) Pollenca main square (Placa Major) had a gorgeous jovial atmosphere in the evenings. This is another plus in the column of making it a great base – you can drive to your chosen activities during the day and return for a festive dinner in the square at night.
Things to do in Pollenca
My favourite thing to do in Pollenca was to wander around the gorgeous little streets. Something I found so fascinating in Mallorca was to go out wandering in the morning and then again in the evening. The empty streets and shuttered shops of the morning compared to the bustling crowds and hidden gems in the evening was very cool to see.
In September when I visited, there was jazz band in the Placa Major in the evening. This gave it a very convivial atmosphere with people cheering and dancing. I recommend meandering the streets with an ice cream in the evening to absorb all the happenings.
Of course, you can’t go to Pollenca without climbing the Calvari steps. They are rooted in local religious tradition and there is a church at the top. For those of us who aren’t religious, the stairs offer stunning views over Pollenca town and the surrounding Tramuntana. I’d say the views as you climb the stairs (and the stunning houses that line the steps) are better than the view from the top. However, you can also duck off to the side of the church at the top for another vantage point down to the town, rolling green hills and ocean in the distance.
Either Pollenca or Port De Pollenca are good bases if you intend to visit Cap De Formentor or Cala Formentor. More on this in a section below, but I absolutely recommend at least Cala Formentor. It is an absolutely incredible spot that ended up being one of my favourite beaches in the whole of Mallorca.
More things to do in Pollenca
As we will discuss below, Pollenca is a good spot to base yourself if you intend to drive to Sa Calobra. You can also go from Soller, but I found Soller had more activities to accomplish and it’s less stressful to spread them evenly.
Every Sunday, Pollenca has their weekly market. I didn’t manage to get to the one in Pollenca, but the Santanyi one was a great experience. It’s so interesting to see how the town changes with the influx of people, and markets are a big part of Mallorcan culture.
My advice for being in town for a weekly market in one of the bigger places is to be staying there when it is on. I couldn’t believe how busy Santanyi was when I arrived for the market (and I ended up getting a 40 euro parking fine) so it’s worth being in the area. Parking is a nightmare, particularly if you don’t arrive early.
On that note: arrive early! Anything in Mallorca can be hectic in peak season, but the markets draw in locals and tourists alike. Being sardined in a crowd trying to browse a market loses appeal very quickly.
Where to eat in Pollenca
I want to preface this by saying that I was only in Pollenca for one night and I am a gluten free pescatarian (who doesn’t eat much seafood, only fish). Spain is obviously the place to eat tapas, but authentic gluten free tapas is quite tricky to come by. I was also by myself for this trip, so food was a little less of a priority than when I’m on a trip with other people.
For my dinner, I ate at Trencadora which is an Italian restaurant with a cute little courtyard. I had read from a local blogger that they had gluten free pizza bases and was in the mood for a good pizza. The gluten free pizza bases were cracker/baked flatbread like in consistency, but it actually worked really well. The toppings were delicious and I would recommend.
For breakfast, I ate at Bo’s Pollenca. Bo’s is a very trendy little corner cafe that also does (by all accounts) delicious cocktails. If you’re not gluten free, their focaccias looked delightful. I had a lovely açai bowl (which came with granola, something to consider if can’t tolerate oats like me) and a great espresso.
Of course, I had to sample to local gelato. My intention was to try Ca’n Butxaca on my night in Pollenca and then to try Ca’n Noble Gelats Artesans when I came back for the market. Unfortunately I didn’t end up going back for the market (I underestimated how tired I would be by this stage of the trip). However, Ca’n Butxaca was delicious and I daresay Ca’n Noble Gelats Artesans would be too – the flavours look incredible.
Other restaurants in Pollenca that I wanted to try
- Ca’n Moixet – a tapas cafe/restaurant in Placa Major. This was always busy when I walked past and would be such a vibe in the evening with the live music.
- Oh! Vermut – this bar was absolutely packed on the night I visited. Not everywhere was, so I took that as a sign that it was a good spot.
- Le Font De Gall – a little restaurant in the back streets that was absolutely packed. The menu looks well rated and has some vegetarian options (including vegetarian paella) too. A staff member was chatting with a customer who had been as a kid and she kindly remarked that she had probably been the one to serve him then. I thought that was very wholesome and made me want to go even more.
- Respira was recommended to me as a good gluten free restaurant in Pollenca. It is Italian.
- Farina e anima was a packed little spot during the afternoon and evening. I didn’t go because it’s bread based but just an observation. Would be a cute spot to stop for a wine.
Port De Pollenca
I only stopped in Port De Pollenca for a wander around en route to Pollenca. It is a very pretty port with beaches for you to swim and plenty of restaurants. In terms of my favourite port, I preferred Port De Soller and Port D’Andratx. They felt a bit more glamorous and unique and had less English speaking people wandering around while I was there. Love the British (my Dad is British!) but I wanted to experience something a bit more international after travelling all the way to Spain.
With that said, it is a lovely place to wander around, particularly the end closer to Cap De Formentor. If you are basing yourself in Pollenca and intend to do any boating activities, this will be your port of call, so to speak.
I parked at Carrer Del Llevant car park in Port De Pollenca. From there, it was an easy walk down to the water and along the beachfront.
I didn’t end up eating anywhere in Port De Pollenca because I was trying to spend as much time in Pollenca as possible. However, this was my list of restaurants (most are evening venues):
- Terrae – a low waste, local and Michel starred restaurant
- Can Josep – Mallorcan seafood restaurant
- Bellaverde – vegetarian and vegan restaurant
- Loqueria – an Italian restaurant that everyone seems to love
Tips for Sa Calobra
If you are intending to drive to Sa Calobra, Pollenca is as good a place as any to do it from. It is approximately a 1 hour drive down to Sa Calobra. Something to keep in mind, though, is that some of this time is because of the winding roads down, not because of distance. It is a 41km journey, according to Apple maps.
I didn’t end up going to Sa Calobra, which I regret. To be honest, I was turned off by reports of thin roads and having to reverse on sheer cliff faces for tourist buses. It’s a gorgeous beach and you can go to Torrent De Pareis as well. By all accounts, the windy road is an attraction in and of itself.
If you do intend to drive to Sa Calobra, I would recommend getting up super early. The traffic will be considerably lessened (particularly coming back up while you are going down) which will make the road much more enjoyable and less tight. I also saw a good tip that tour buses don’t start driving back up until after 12-1pm, so you won’t have to face off with one if you get in and out before that time.
A bonus of driving there is that you can tack on Cala Tuent as well. Cala Tuent is supposed to be gorgeous and is accessed by the same road as that which goes to Sa Calobra.
More tips for Sa Calobra
Another thing I read is that the restaurant at the base isn’t great. Whether this is true or just angry tourists, it’s impossible to say. I also saw people mention that they had issues paying with card (I can’t remember whether this was the restaurant or the parking or both). Either way, have provisions and money on you before you set off.
If you are brave with driving back and intend to stay the whole day, bring everything you need for whatever you’re planning. Bathers and a towel for swimming, hiking gear for hiking, etc. Even if you’re only potentially planning an activity, it’s so much easier than having to drive back up. I don’t know if they close the road off to traffic when the car park/beach is full, but they were doing that in other places I visited. Something to keep in mind.
If driving down isn’t your thing, you can also book a boat tour from Port De Soller. There are various options: a big ferry, small group tours that stop at other spots en route, etc.
Sa Calobra is a tiny little beach and cove down a winding, steep road. It is subject to the elements and prone to flash flooding. I read news of two incidents of extreme weather while I was there, including one where people sadly lost their lives. Make sure you check the weather forecast and only go on a good weather day.
By all accounts, cyclists love this route. This means they will be all over the roads. Keep that in mind each time you turn a hairpin bend.
Tips for Cap De Formentor
I got up at 6.30am to drive to Cap De Formentor from Soller. I didn’t visit from Pollenca because it was a grey, rainy day and I was busy with the kitten I rescued, Percy. The early start was worth it though, because when I arrived at the lighthouse I got the last available park up the top. The cars move quite quickly as there’s not an enormous amount to do up there (aside from admire the insane beauty, of course) but still worth mentioning.
An important thing to note is that Mallorca has implemented a road closure of the Cap De Formentor road from 10am to 10.30pm in the high season (June 1 to September 30). This is to protect the environment and the road. You’ll catch a substantial fine if you’re found to be on the lighthouse road in that time.
This means that if you drive to the lighthouse before 10am, you will not receive a fine. A caveat, however: you need to be off the road and out of the area before 10am when the closure kicks in. This is why I would recommend getting there super early if you intend to go and spend some time.
It is worth noting that this doesn’t apply to cyclists and you can also catch the bus or book a tour to get in during the day. This is also your only option if you want to a watch a sunset at the lighthouse.
Despite the slog it took to get there, I’d say this is a worthwhile adventure (do both the lighthouse and the beach). The road to get to the lighthouse is also part of the fun – a little tricky be manageable if you go early. Some stunning views, too.
Tips for Cala Formentor
What was a little confusing for me is that Cala Formentor is accessed by the same national park entry. I visited Cala Formentor after driving to the lighthouse, and I was a bit worried that I’d get a fine for staying at the beach past 10am. By all accounts, though, if you park in a legitimate parking zone (ticketed and paid and not cheap, incidentally) you can leave whenever you like.
My understanding in terms of visiting Cala Formentor only is that they allow access until the legitimate car parks are full. After that, they turn people away at the entrance close to Port De Pollenca. As I was leaving the national park at around 12pm, they had shut off the entrance to the entire park.
It is so much easier in terms of parking and stress to get there early. I was in the car park at 9am and I was one of the first people on the beach. It was so special to have the water almost entirely to myself and was one of the highlights of my trip. I highly recommend an early start for Cala Formentor as it was one of the most beautiful beaches I went to and 200% worth an early morning.
Before I visited, I read the reviews of the restaurants along the foreshore in Cala Formentor and none were glowing. I had a coffee at both of the main restaurants and they were both fine. In Mallorca, I found that eating was often about the venue and scenery rather than the food itself. To me, it’s a worthy trade when you are somewhere as gorgeous as Cala Formentor.
More Mallorca resources
- Cala Santanyi, Mallorca
- Calo Des Moro, Mallorca
- Mallorca travel tips
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