Fornalutx, Mallorca

I recently did a day trip from Soller to Fornalutx in Mallorca. Fornalutx has been named as one of Mallorca’s most beautiful towns, so it was a must-do. In fact, it has been named as one of the most beautiful towns in Spain as a whole. I’d have to agree with the verdict!

Fornalutx is a small town nestled in the Tramuntana mountains above Soller. The town’s size means its easily walkable (although there are lots of stairs; something to be aware of if you have mobility constraints). Every corner of the town is stunning in a different way and you can wander every street.

The main square, Placa Espana, was a lively and joyful affair when I was there in September. There was a tag team of local musicians performing together for those eating lunch in the square. The musicians were of all ages, young and old grouped together. It was such a community minded atmosphere and I absolutely loved sitting in the square with a spritz to take it all in.

An image of a street in Fornalutx filled with hydrangeas — A back street of Fornalutx

Walking to Fornalutx from Soller

I chose to walk to Fornalutx from my hotel (Hotel Ca’l Bisbe) in Soller. Although driving in the Tramuntana was less terrifying than I braced for, I still didn’t fancy the idea of navigating parking in a tiny mountainous town.

More than that, though, I wanted to see Binaraix (the small town in between Soller and Fornalutx). As it turned out, the walk was absolutely stunning and well worth it. I highly recommend it if you’re a holiday walker. The whole day was about 25k steps for me, but I also walked around Fornalutx and then around Soller for dinner.

There are some hills but also some flat areas. It’s not an overly challenging walk (don’t get me wrong, I was still sweating). I would recommend wearing runners and comfortable clothes, because you’ll also be walking in Fornalutx itself (and back down again).

I have to say that the walk, with the morning fog still lifting, was one of the highlights of my trip. It was a stunning privilege to see more local aspects of these beautiful towns. Ecovinyassa, the orange farm you might have seen on TikTok, is also on this route. It is open 10am-3pm and closed 3 days a week, so make sure you check before you add it to your itinerary. You’ll see plenty of citrus trees on the walk, though, so don’t be too sad if it doesn’t fit your schedule.

An image of the town signs in Biniaraix, Mallorca. A misty citrus field and a cloudy but blue sky are in the background — Captured on the walk from Soller to Fornalutx

Driving to Fornalutx

Although I didn’t drive myself, I did make a few observations on my walking route. Firstly, I highly recommend taking the MA10 and MA2120 turn off as opposed to taking the most direct ‘faster’ route (MA2121) if you are coming from Soller.

The roads were thin, windy and had sharp corners. Even the locals had to reverse and re-attempt the turn after Biniaraix onwards to Fornalutx. God forbid a car was coming in the other direction!

I can’t remember if the roads were one way or not but pedestrians definitely reigned supreme in Fornalutx. I would take the car park at the top of town if you come in via the MA10 and MA2120. You should see signs for parking as you approach the town.

By all accounts, the parking is paid. I wouldn’t bother trawling for a free park as I daresay these are reserved for locals given the size of the town.

I found most car parks across Mallorca were good at accepting card, but it’s always good to keep some cash on you either way.

The view of Fornalutx as seen from the walk from Soller. Lush green surrounds the stone houses set against a mountainous backdrop and a blue sky — A view of Fornalutx from the base of the town (coming from Soller)

Where to eat in Fornalutx

I only spent a day here, but I managed to squeeze in a fair bit of eating and drinking in that time. I started my adventure with a spritz at Bar Deportivo in Placa Espana (the main square, hard to miss). There are a few different cafes and restaurants in the square and I’m sure they’re all worthy stops. I found that oftentimes it was more about the location rather than the venue itself.

That said, Bar Deportivo had some good looking toasts if you can eat regular bread. A little further down the side alley, Can Benet and Cafe Med also get good reviews. On a busy day, I suspect it’s a bit about whether you can find a table.

I had some delicious gelato at Pruna Gelateria Artesana which had only recently opened and wasn’t even on the map! I highly recommend stopping in: they had delicious flavours like melon and mint (along with the classics, of course). The owner was also very obviously passionate about gelato, too.

For lunch, I stopped in at Es Turo at the top of Fornalutx. My life wasn’t changed forever by the meal but the view was incredible and the staff were absolutely lovely.

The view of lush greenery and mountains from Restaurant Es Turo in Fornalutx, Mallorca — The view from the terrace at Es Turo Restaurant in Fornalutx

Restaurants in Fornalutx on my list:

Mirador De Ses Barques – a 10 minute drive or 45 minute walk from Fornalutx, this restaurant is on MA10 (keep going past the MA2120 turnoff for Fornalutx. It has stunning views over the water (potentially Port De Soller judging by the photos). You’d probably be best driving to this one but it looks stunning.
Panaderia De Fornalutx – not for a gluten free girl like me, but this authentic little bakery is in Placa Espana, the main square. Google seems to say it’s temporarily closed – I’m not sure if that is accurate. There is another bakery further up the road called Forn De Barri – there is one in Soller and one in Fornalutx. It looks equally delicious and might potentially have a good view (I didn’t go in).

A glass of sangria on a terrace in Fornalutx, Mallorca — Sangria at Es Turo restaurant, Fornalutx

What to do in Fornalutx

Of course, the number one thing the do in this gorgeous town is (respectfully) wander the streets. Every corner is absolutely gorgeous and it’s nice to take a stroll and take it all in.

I also loved sitting the Placa Espana with a spritz and watching the world go by. It was so nice to see the locals greet each other and chat and the whole place had a lovely feel.

Needless to say, you can also walk into Biniaraix or down to Soller. Its an approximate 45 minute walk to the main square in Soller (Placa De La Constitutió). Soller has a Saturday market, which I didn’t go to (ironically, I was en route to Fornalutx) but looks gorgeous. Walking would be a great option on market day if you are not buying lots of things.

Driving is an option, but parking in Soller was absolutely hectic (and the locals are struggling) so walking is a more straightforward option if you can. Soller has loads of activities and I’m writing a post on those as we speak.

There are lots of gorgeous hikes in the area – you can find some options here.
Puig Major is considered the highest peak in Mallorca and you can climb it, if that’s your thing.
Sa Calobra is a 54 minute drive away. I’d recommend getting up early if you intend to park and stay at the beach. Parks are incredibly scarce in lovely beach areas.
Deia is a 28 minute drive and well worth seeing. It is absolutely jaw droppingly stunning. I recommend staying in Deia for a couple of days, but a day trip is better than nothing!
Port De Soller is only a 16 minute drive and an absolutely gorgeous place. The vibe of each place is so different – it would be a lovely lunch or dinner trip, particularly if you fancy a swim.

An image of a spritz in Placa Espana, Fornalutx, Mallorca

Where to stay in Fornalutx

I didn’t stay in Fornalutx but based myself in Soller, Mallorca. Because I was a solo female traveller, I decided to stay in Soller. A slightly bigger and busier town meant I’d feel safer walking home after dinner at night. Not that Fornalutx felt remotely unsafe (it felt incredibly safe) but still a consideration women have to make.

As far as I can tell, there are three main hotels in Fornalutx along with air bnbs. I struggle with whether or not to book air bnbs or hotels (from an ethical perspective) given the housing crisis globally. I figure that small hotels are a good balance: the money (hopefully) stays on the island, jobs are created and no housing stock is lost.

The options seem to be:

Petit Hotel Fornalutx
Sa Tanqueta
Hotel Can Verdura

All have stunning views and a swimming pool (although I think Sa Tanqueta looks like it has the biggest pool area if you love a swim). I doubt you could go too far wrong with any. For larger groups, there are plenty of air bnb style accomodations as well.

An image of a cobbled staircase in Biniaraix, Mallorca

Tips for Fornalutx

Wear walking shoes! It’s not a car friendly town and it’s cobbled, so you’ll be getting some steps in.
Be aware that the locals are struggling with the extreme levels of tourism. Try not to do annoying tourist things! Learn some Spanish, be polite, smile and say hello. Support local businesses and consider walking into town if you can/are staying nearby. The traffic jams are just as bad as throngs of people.
On that note, someone I met there said that the tourist buses roll in around 1pm. I recommend arriving early-ish (as with anywhere in Mallorca) to see it on a quiet day.

Biniaraix

An even smaller town that is nestled between Soller and Fornalutx, this lovely spot is worth a visit. It is equally as gorgeous as the two, yet not nearly as busy. Because it’s so tiny, there aren’t a wealth of restaurants or hotels to choose from. Therein lies it’s charm: simplicity and peace.

If I were basing myself in any of the three towns for a period of time for a peaceful stay, I would likely choose Biniaraix. It is close enough to either town to meander up or down, equally as beautiful and quiet. I don’t know about attempting to drive into town (the roads were SO thin) but that’s an individual call to make.

On my walk, I saw a few fincas with swimming pools and I think this would be absolutely dreamy for a longer stay (or even a shorter stay). As a solo female traveller I was happy to stay in a hotel in Soller, but I definitely would have chosen a finca if I was with other people. They are consistently stunning and present a great opportunity to cook with local produce (if that’s your thing).

In terms of where to eat, I recommend Bar Bodega Biniaraix. I only stopped in for coffee on my way to Fornalutx, but it was cute and inviting. The menu looked really special and it was even lovely just to sit in the square and have an espresso. Check the opening times, though: it was closed when I came back in the afternoon (probably for siesta).