As part of our Scandinavian winter adventure, we spent 3 gorgeously cold and snowy days in beautiful Tromsø. Tromsø is in Northern Norway, right up in the Arctic circle. The scenes are magical, stunning and straight out of a Christmas storybook.
Where to stay in Tromsø
We stayed at Scandic The Dock which is a 10-15 minute walk from the Hurtigruten terminal where we arrived. It was a gorgeous hotel and the breakfast was one of the best we had. I will say, though, that walking 15 minutes in the snow is a lot more cumbersome than I imagined. We were going to and from the bus terminal (located under the Hurtigruten terminal) every day, so 2-3 X 15 minute walks really adds up.
Next time (and particularly if I were doing lots of day trips) I would stay close to the bus terminal. The Scandic Ishavshotel is closer to the bus and apparently has a great breakfast. There are also other hotels around the bus terminal area that would make early morning excursions much easier.
Tromsø is big enough for a 15-20 minute walks (or longer) but kind of too small to be regularly getting ubers (which are also very expensive). So, staying nearby the bus terminal works both for day trips and for proximity to the most popular restaurants and bars.
What to do in Tromsø itself
If you’re visiting Tromsø in winter (which I suggest) I highly recommend arriving via Hurtigruten or Havila. The route between Svolvær and Tromsø was jaw droppingly stunning and one of my most awe-inspiring travel moments to date. It is also very cool coming into Tromsø on the boat and seeing it from that perspective.
Of course, this isn’t always possible and I totally accept that. My next favourite season-dependent activity is aurora watching. We actually didn’t go on an aurora hunting tour because we were very tired from a long, hectic trip (Tromsø was our last stop). However, I daresay you would get some insane views because they drive out to the middle of nowhere with less cloud cover.
You can see the aurora on a clear night in Tromsø itself. I will say that the Scandic the Dock hotel rooftop was great for aurora viewing. However, I would also highly recommend going up Fjellheisen on a clear night.
I didn’t know this when we visited, but a day pass (different to a return ticket) to Fjellheisen entitles you to unlimited uses for the day. You can go up and down as you please, which means you can see it in the daylight and the night-time. If I had my time again, I would have gone back up at night to do some aurora spotting. There is a cafe up the top which is open until just before the cable car closes (11.30pm for the cafe at the time of writing).
If you walk to or from Fjellheisen (which is a gorgeous walk) you’ll go past the Arctic Cathedral. We didn’t go in because there was a funeral being held, but it was nice to see it up close. For me this was a ‘nice to do but not essential’ in Tromsø. You will get a bird’s eye view of the Gateway to The Artic mosaic on your way back into Tromsø.
If you’re feeling brave: a sauna and a cold plunge! Pust looks gorgeous and very central. I also walked past Vulkana a number of times which is a sauna and hot tub on a boat! You can book a harbour ticket (ie: you just stay docked) or a fjord cruise.
Of course, you have to walk around town! It is so cute and cosy in winter and it’s the perfect size for covering in a day or two. There are lots of nice restaurants, coffee shops and bars which I will go into below.
Things to do around Tromsø
This list applies to the winter season because that’s when I went. The list goes on and on, quite frankly!
- Snowmobiling in the Lyngen Alps (a full day trip from Tromsø)
- Visiting a reindeer farm with lunch and a Sami experience (ours was a half day tour)
- Whale watching boat tour (generally a full day trip)
- Snowshoeing hikes in the surrounding alps (I didn’t even look this up lol)
- Safe hiking based on your abilities and experience (this article is helpful)
- Dogsledding (I didn’t look this up as we felt conflicted about the ethics)
- A tour of the surrounding fjords (ideal if you are not arriving by Hurtigruten/Havila)
Tips for Fjellheisen
Fjellheisen offers a shuttle bus from Tromsø for a small fee. We were told by a fellow traveller to make our own way there (ie: not get the shuttle bus) to get to Fjellheisen before the crowds. At the time of writing, it opens at 9am and closes at midnight.
This tip worked well for us and we were one of only a few in our cable car. People were already up the mountain when we arrived (9.15am) but we didn’t have to stand in a long line to go up or come back down.
Next time, I would buy a day pass and go up once at sunrise and once again at night. If you can be flexible with your dates, you could try and schedule your Fjellheisen day for a clear day with an aurora chance. I think it would also be worth buying an additional ticket to go up at night if the aurora shows up. The view with an aurora looks absolutely stunning and 100% worth the extra expense.
We ended up walking back from Fjellheisen to Tromsø town. The walk was absolutely gorgeous and not strenuous if you have the means. It also means you are walking straight past the Arctic Cathedral, so you can group those together in your itinerary.
On the bridge, you’ll get a lovely view of Tromsø and the surrounding scenery as well as a nice view of the mosaic Gateway to the Arctic.
What to wear and what to pack for winter in Tromsø
The winter weather varied quite a bit when we were in Tromsø. Before we arrived, it was -35C! While we were there, there were a few days it was about -18C and a few that were more -8C level. Either way, quite cold for an Australian like me.
I will say that the weather we experienced was colder than is traditionally expected in Tromsø. Because of the gulf stream current that brings warmer air and sea temperatures. Tromsø is, despite the snow, a lot warmer than other places at similar latitudes. So, take my experience with a grain of salt.
First and foremost, I highly recommend packing or buying some spikes. There were sections of Tromsø that were slippery and I saw a number of people fall over. Not worth breaking a wrist for.
Next, of course, you’ll need a puffer coat. I would recommend at least 1 layer of thermals underneath your clothes and packing more just in case. I was wearing thermal tights, tights and a pair of pants and I could have done with another thermal layer. All this from somebody who gets hot super easily and prefers to be cold over hot.
I’d also recommend some serious gloves. My ideal scenario would be one pair of fingerless gloves underneath mittens so that I can briefly get my hand out to take photos or use my phone. I just had the fingerless gloves and puffer coat pockets.
On my feet, I wore snow boots that I bought for South Korea. They served me well and I wore 2 pairs of socks in them in addition to the thermal tights. I probably would have liked a thermal pair of socks but I came a little bit unprepared.
A scarf and beanie are a must, and ideally a scarf that you can wrap up around your face when out walking.
I’ll also add (because I wondered this before I went): for whatever magical reason, you tend not to overheat in most indoor venues. I don’t know how it works but when we’d go into a cafe, we could easily keep our jackets on (or at least have all the layers underneath) without overheating. Different story for hotel rooms (we found them all so hot all over Scandinavia!) but you don’t need to worry about the layering situation during the day in my experience.
Where to eat in Tromsø
Keep in mind, I am gluten free and Mum is vegetarian so this is a predominantly vegetarian list with gluten free options.
- Casa Inferno – popular and busy pizza place with gluten free bases
- Risø – great brunch and coffee (limited gluten free options)
- Bardus – Norwegian food in a cosy interior (we didn’t manage to get here but it was on my list)
- Burgr – cute little video game themed burger spot with a vego option and gluten free buns (they don’t guarantee gf because of contamination, though)
- Rakketen bar and Pølse – hot dog stand in the centre of town. We didn’t go so I can’t say if they have vego options but I did read that they offer gf buns
- Restaurant Smak – a fine dining multi course menu that needs to be booked well in advance. We didn’t go so I can’t speak to the vego or gluten free options
- Ruda – the sister restaurant to Smak that is a little more casual by all accounts (again, we didn’t go here and it is a taxi ride away from the centre)
- Fiskekompaniet – apparently the place to go if you like seafood
I wanted to eat at Emma’s Drømmekjøkken but they made it so hard lol. The first night they were inexplicably closed and the second night they would only serve food if we had a booking (in the wine bar too). So, this is a maybe.
Where to drink in Tromsø
- Vervet Bakery – best espresso I had all trip
- Tollefsøn – good coffee right in the centre of town
- Risø – great coffee as well as brunch
- Kaffebønna – good coffee and multiple locations
- Rørt – cute and sleek cocktail bar (they also do delicious buns during the day but the coffee wasn’t amazing when we went)
- Misfits Tiki Bar – tropical themed Tiki bar with delicious cocktails
- Fjellheisen – drinks with an insane view!
- Helmersen Delikatesser and vinbar – cute wine bar with nice cheeses
When should I visit?
We visited Tromsø in very early January – from the 2rd to the 5th. It was very cold (-18C some days) and snowy. This was exactly the vibe I was going for – super snowy and gorgeous. To reiterate: the weather we had was quite a bit colder than is traditionally expected.
We visited Tromsø as part of a month long trip around Scandinavia. While our timing was perfect to spend Christmas and New Year abroad, it did also mean that we were in Tromsø during polar night.
Polar night, if you aren’t familiar, is when the sun does not rise at all in Tromsø because of the earth’s tilt. Polar night in Tromsø is from November 27 to January 15. During this time, we got a warm, soft ‘twilight’ vibe from about 9-10am to 1 or 2pm. So, not many hours to get your camera out!
After polar night ends, the days get longer quite quickly. This website says that by mid-late February you’ll get around 9 hours of light.
I enjoyed polar night because it was something I have never experienced. However, it does make sightseeing time limited. We also found that we were ready for bed by 6pm because of the darkness!
If I weren’t connecting Tromsø to any other trip, I would probably go in mid February. Still cold enough to have snow but with longer days. I have read that aurora hunting can be peak in March due to the equinox, so that would work nicely too.
With all that said, go when you can go! We saw two auroras in Tromsø city itself. While it is luck of the draw, there is still aurora activity in January.
Getting to and from Tromsø airport
We arrived on a Havila ship so we didn’t arrive into Tromsø airport. We did fly out of there, though, so I thought I would offer some tips.
Firstly, the Flybussen airport shuttle is expensive and slow. I had a look on my uber app (I refuse to capitalise their business name) and it was only slightly more expensive to book a Norway taxi via the uber app.
The bus service was fine and friendly, but it was barely cheaper than a taxi and it made multiple stops along the way. We had cut it a little fine so the constant bus stopping was stressing me out.
I’d recommend sussing out the uber app to determine the difference in price before booking the bus. We were lucky that the bus stopped outside our hotel, but some people would have had to walk to and from their accomodation to the bus stop.
Another tip, while we’re chatting about the airport: the food offering is not great. We decided not to get lunch in town and get it at the airport for a less stressful day. Mistake! If you have a choice, eat in town. There were very few restaurant options and certainly not for gluten free people.
Tromsø tips
- Bring spikes if you are visiting in winter! You can also buy them in Tromsø – worth the extra layer of security when you are walking around.
- Stay near the bus terminal/the Hurtigruten terminal if you are doing lots of day trips.
- I recommend padding your itinerary for flying in and out of Tromsø if you can. The weather can be wild and we met a woman who had paid $8000 (yes, three 0s) for a taxi from Tromsø to Henningsvær after her flight was cancelled. We got lucky with the weather but I always think it’s better safe than sorry.
- The above particularly important if you have a big flight home next on the agenda. We flew to Oslo in the early evening and then stayed at an airport hotel before flying back to Australia at midday the next day. More expensive but worth it to me.
- Book your excursions in advance as they do get booked up. However, it can be helpful to have a bit of extra padding and flexibility in case of the weather. Our aurora hunting tour in Lofoten was cancelled due to terrible weather and sadly they couldn’t reschedule.
- To that end, I’d suggest stacking your activities at the front end of your stay in Tromsø. This gives you a bit more flexibility if they need to be rescheduled.
A visual demonstration of Polar Night in Tromsø
I didn’t quite know what to expect when I visited Tromsø during Polar Night, so I thought it would be helpful to show you what it looked like while I was there.
To reiterate, I was there from 2-5 January 2026. Polar night officially starts on November 27 and ends 15 January. I say officially because some resources say that it is a little longer than this due to the mountainous surroundings. Either way, the days get lighter after mid January.
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